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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.